Whether you’re picking up coloured pencils for the first time or you're a seasoned artist looking to refine your technique, this guide is designed to inspire and equip you at every stage. From exploring essential tools to discovering advanced techniques, here’s everything you need to make the most out of your coloured pencils.
1. Choosing the Right Coloured Pencils: Quality Over Quantity
The type of coloured pencils you choose can significantly impact your artwork. While budget-friendly options might be tempting, investing in artist-grade pencils can make a world of difference in your results. Here's what to consider:
Types of Coloured Pencils
A little note here - all Wax and Oil based pencils have both ingredients in them, but it is the quantity of wax or oil that defines them.
Wax-Based Pencils: These are popular for their smooth application and vibrant colours. Brands like Prismacolor Premier and Caran d’Ache Luminance fall into this category. Wax-based pencils are ideal for layering and blending but can sometimes leave a waxy film (known as bloom) on your work. Although in this category Caran d’Ache Luminance is quite resistant to bloom.
Oil-Based Pencils: Known for their harder cores, oil-based pencils like Faber-Castell Polychromos and Caran d’Ache Pablo provide precise lines and excellent durability. They’re perfect for intricate details and tend to resist bloom, making them a favourite for professional artists. However, Derwent Lightfast is an oil based pencil that has a soft core like a waxed based pencil, and is great for layering and blending.
Water-Soluble Pencils: These versatile pencils, such as Faber-Castell Albrecht Durer or Caran d’Ache Museum Aquarelle, allow you to create effects similar to watercolour. They can be used wet or dry, offering flexibility for mixed-media work.
Lightfastness
Lightfastness refers to how resistant a pencil’s colour is to fading over time when exposed to light. For artwork you want to preserve or sell, always opt for pencils with high lightfast ratings. Check each brand’s lightfast rating system (e.g., ASTM standards or the Blue Wool Scale) and look for labels like "permanent" or "excellent."
Colour Range vs. Bendability
A wide colour range is nice, but it’s not always necessary if the pencils blend well. A high-quality set of 12 or 24 colours can often produce the same results as a cheaper 72-colour set. It’s all about learning how to layer and blend.
Testing and Compatibility
Before committing to a full set, try a few pencils from different brands. Some brands layer better on specific papers, while others shine when used with solvents or blending tools. Building your collection over time allows you to find pencils that match your style and technique.
Budget Tips for Beginners
If you’re just starting, consider mid-range brands like Derwent Coloursoft or Koh-I-Noor Polycolor. These offer good quality at a more affordable price. Then, as your skills grow, you can upgrade to artist-grade pencils.
First Cherry drawn using Caran d'Ache Supracolor Soft
Second Cherry drawn using Derwent Coloursoft
Third Cherry drawn using Faber Castell Polychromos
Pro Tip:
Mix brands! You don’t need to stick to one. Many artists use a combination of pencils from different sets to capitalize on their unique qualities. For instance, you might use Faber Castell Polychromos for details and Derwent Lightfast for vibrant layers.
By understanding your options and choosing the right tools, you’ll set yourself up for success from the very first stroke.
2. Understanding Paper: The Foundation of Your Artwork
The type of paper you choose is just as important as the pencils you use. Paper affects how your coloured pencils interact with the surface, influencing blending, layering, and the final look of your artwork. Here's what to consider:
Paper Texture (Tooth)
The "tooth" of the paper refers to its surface texture, which holds the pigment from your pencils.
Smooth Paper: Hot-pressed papers like Bristol Board or Strathmore 500 Series provide a smooth surface, ideal for fine details and crisp edges. However, they don’t hold as many layers of pigment, so blending can be more challenging.
Medium Texture: Papers like Fabriano Artistico or Stonehenge strike a balance, allowing for detailed work while accommodating multiple layers. This is often a favourite for coloured pencil artists.
Rough Texture: Cold-pressed or rougher papers are excellent for bold, expressive work or mixed media, as they hold more pigment and allow for interesting textures.
Weight Matters
Paper weight is measured in gsm (grams per square metre) or lbs (pounds). Heavier papers (above 200gsm or 90lbs) are sturdier and can handle more intensive layering and blending techniques. If you plan to use solvents or water-soluble pencils, a heavier paper will prevent warping.
Colour and Finish
White Paper: This is the most versatile and allows colours to appear vibrant and true.
Toned Paper: Grey, beige, or other toned papers can add depth and mood to your artwork, especially for portraits or wildlife. They provide a mid-tone base, reducing the need for heavy layering.
Textured Finishes: Some papers, like pastel papers or velour, have unique surfaces that create striking effects but require more practice to master.
My personal favourites are Pastelmat; Its velvety surface was a game-changer for me. Its toothy texture grips the pigment beautifully, enabling vibrant coloured layers and smooth blending. It's particularly forgiving and great for techniques involving PanPastel underpaintings which I use a lot. It also allows for white to be put over dark colours and really suits my style. The other is Drafting Film, I seem to like extremes! This isn’t a paper but a plastic film which is translucent and has virtually no tooth. Unfortunately, this means only a few layers can be achieved, but because it allows work on both sides of the material, it opens up possibilities for achieving depth with a few more layers on the opposite side. However, it requires a light hand and specific techniques to avoid scratching.
Compatibility with Techniques
Certain papers work better for specific techniques:
For layering, choose a medium to textured-tooth paper that can hold multiple layers.
For blending with solvents, use a paper that’s durable enough to handle liquids, like Arches Watercolour Paper.
For burnishing, a smoother surface works best to achieve that polished, smooth finish.
Testing Before Committing
Before starting a major project, always test your pencils on a small swatch of the paper. This helps you understand how the colours will appear, how much pressure to use, and how well the paper handles blending.
Budget-Friendly Options
If you’re experimenting, start with student-grade papers like Canson XL Mixed Media. As you refine your skills, invest in premium papers like Fabriano, Arches, or Legion Stonehenge for archival-quality work. However, having said that always buy the best you can afford. The results you can achieve on quality paper far outweigh the results and possible disappointments created by cheap low grade paper.
Your choice of paper lays the foundation for your art, so experiment and find the one that feels like a natural fit for your style and techniques.
Pro Tip:
To protect your coloured pencil creations, wrap them in glassine paper and store them in plastic sleeves or archival boxes. These steps safeguard against smudging, dust, and environmental damage, ensuring your artwork remains in pristine condition.
To fix or not to fix? While some artists use fixatives to seal their work, I strongly advise against this practice for coloured pencil art. Fixatives can cause the fine details to spread or disappear, alter your colours, dulling the vibrancy, and may leave unwanted splatter marks on the surface. Instead, focus on proper storage solutions to preserve your artwork's integrity.
3. Understanding Techniques: Building Layers, Blending, and Burnishing
To unlock the full potential of coloured pencils, mastering the essential techniques is key. Each method brings a unique dimension to your work and allows for greater versatility and depth. Here's how to take your coloured pencil skills to the next level:
Building Layers
The foundation of any great coloured pencil artwork is layering. Instead of pressing hard to achieve bold colours right away, coloured pencil work thrives on the slow, methodical buildup of translucent layers.
Start with Light Pressure: Begin with a light hand, letting the tooth of the paper hold the pigment. Gradually build up more layers, increasing pressure only in the final stages.
Colour Mixing through Layers: Layer complementary colours to create rich, lifelike tones. For instance, overlaying blues and yellows can yield a vibrant green, while adding hints of red can create shadows with warmth.
Avoid Wax Bloom: If you're using wax-based pencils like Prismacolor, keep layers thin to avoid wax bloom, where a cloudy residue forms on the surface. If it does occur, gently wipe the area with a soft cloth.
Blending
Blending is where the magic happens, transforming individual pencil strokes into seamless, smooth colour transitions. While some artists use solvents or blending pencils, blending with the pencils themselves offers a purer and more controlled result.
Circular Motion: Use small, circular strokes to softly merge colours. This is especially effective for areas like skin tones or skies.
Layer for Blending: Blending can also occur naturally by applying subsequent layers of colour. The friction from layering gradually smoothens the pigments.
Experiment with Texture: While blending can create smooth surfaces, leaving areas unblended adds texture, especially useful in fur, foliage, or fabric details.
Left side of dog is unblended and only has base layers put down the righthand side is blended.
Burnishing
Burnishing involves applying heavy pressure with a light-coloured or white pencil to compress the layers of pigment into the paper, creating a polished, almost painterly effect.
When to Burnish: Reserve burnishing for the final layers. It flattens the tooth of the paper, so adding further layers afterward can be challenging.
Use the Right Colour: Choose a colour slightly lighter than your final shade or a white pencil for highlights. For midtones or shadows, use a matching or neutral shade to avoid altering the hue.
Go Slow: Burnishing is a time-intensive process. Take your time to ensure even coverage without damaging the paper.
Avoiding Overworking
It's easy to get carried away when building layers and burnishing, but overworking the paper can lead to smudging, tearing, or losing the vibrancy of colours. If the tooth of your paper becomes fully saturated and you can’t add more layers, it’s time to stop.
By understanding and mastering these techniques, you’ll not only elevate the quality of your work but also gain the confidence to experiment and develop your unique artistic style. Whether you're aiming for photorealism or an expressive, loose finish, these foundational methods are the gateway to success in coloured pencil art.
4. Textures: Creating Realism and Detail
Capturing the texture of different surfaces—whether it’s the softness of fur, the smoothness of glass, or the roughness of tree bark—requires attention to detail and an understanding of your medium.
Fur and Hair:
Achieving realistic fur or hair involves layering clumps and individual strokes. Start with the base colour and gradually build strands with lighter or darker shades to create depth. Use directional strokes that mimic the growth pattern of the fur or hair. Long strokes for long fur/hair and short stokes for short fur/hair.
An example of a short haired dog, following the length of fur and direction.
Rough Surfaces (e.g., Bark or Stone):
Use textured paper like Pastelmat to exaggerate roughness. Lightly apply the pencil over the paper and let the texture of the paper help for an organic feel, and layer with darker colours to emphasize cracks and shadows.
Glass or Metal:
For reflective surfaces, focus on sharp contrasts between light and dark areas. A white pencil or eraser can be used to lift highlights, while bold, dark lines add depth to reflections.
Shadows: Adding Depth and Dimension
Shadows ground your subjects in their environment and convey a sense of three-dimensionality.
Understand Light Sources:
Determine where the light is coming from in your composition. Use this to decide where shadows should fall and how intense they need to be.
Layer Gradually:
Build shadows with layers of complementary or analogous colours rather than using black alone, which can make the drawing look flat. For instance, in warm lighting, shadows might have hints of purple or brown rather than pure grey.
Soft vs. Hard Edges:
Use blending techniques to create soft edges for diffuse shadows (like those cast by ambient light) and sharp edges for crisp shadows (from direct lighting).
An example of how I draw the shadows to ground the cherries.
Highlights: Drawing the Eye
Highlights are often the finishing touch that brings life and energy to your piece. Whether it’s the glint in an animal’s eye or the sparkle of sunlight on water, well-placed highlights can transform a drawing.
Preserve the Paper:
The purest highlights come from leaving the paper untouched. Plan your highlights early, masking out areas with tape or a fine eraser if needed.
Use White or Light Colours:
While white pencils are useful, sometimes a light blue, yellow, or peach can create more realistic highlights depending on the subject and lighting. For reflective surfaces like water or metal, contrast between highlights and shadows is key.
Final Touches:
If you have forgotten or been unable to keep the highlights white, consider applying final highlights with an archival gel pen or soft pastel for an extra pop of brightness.
An Example of how adding bright highlights can make a drawing pop. (Original reference photograph taken by Lisa Ann Watkins)
Tying It All Together
Textures, shadows, and highlights don’t exist in isolation—they work together to create a cohesive and engaging piece.
By experimenting with these advanced techniques and understanding how they interplay, you’ll develop a more dynamic style and create art that resonates on a deeper level. Whether you're striving for photorealism or exploring expressive abstraction, these methods are your toolkit for pushing boundaries and achieving your artistic vision.
(To be continued….)
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